The Roast Beef Standard, Set in Mid-City
Roast beef po-boyThe New Orleans roast beef po-boy standard, dressed on crackly Leidenheimer-style French bread with gravy-soaked beef piled high.
Shrimp po-boyFried shrimp dressed on Leidenheimer-style French bread, the kind of straightforward po-boy the city has built its sandwich reputation on.
Debris po-boyDebris is the slow-cooked bits and drippings that fall from the roast, and this po-boy lets that richest cut of the beef do the talking.
Parkway Bakery & Tavern is the room that locals invoke when the argument turns to po-boys, and the Michelin Bib Gourmand designation has only made the wait longer. The case for the place rests almost entirely on the bread and what goes between it: Leidenheimer-style French bread with the right crackle, dressed the way it should be, loaded with roast beef and debris. Debris, for the uninitiated, is the scraps of meat that fall into the dripping pan and cook down into something richer and looser than the sliced beef itself. At Parkway, the debris po-boy is the reason the lines form.
The roast beef alone holds up, but the debris version is the one that earns the restaurant its place in the canon. The shrimp po-boy rounds out the short list of what to order, fried and dressed, functioning as the baseline by which a serious po-boy room earns its keep. Mid-City is the right neighborhood for this kind of place. It sits alongside Mandina's and Liuzza's in a corridor that has always been more interested in feeding the city than performing for visitors.
The price is moderate, which tracks with the Bib Gourmand category: high quality, accessible cost. The tradeoff is the operation itself. Counter service, a room that does not offer much relief from New Orleans heat, and a wait that can stretch depending on the hour. The Bib Gourmand designation brought national attention, and the line reflects that.
Parkway is not broken, just busy. For the patient visitor, the payoff is a dressed roast beef po-boy that makes the argument the city has been making for a century.